From Santiam Pass Trailhead (where Pam Wilson brought me after my restful visit in Bend, elev. approx. 3000), PCT mile 1998.53, elev. 4839, walked 19.95 miles to campsite at PCT mile 2018.48, elev. 5958. Total up/down: +3971/-2888.
Dear Trail Friends and Family,
Pam and I left her home at 5am in the predawn dark and headed up toward Santiam Pass, with a brief stop for coffee. We both loved watching the daylight slowly emerge in the presence of the mountains. Much as I love my solitary hikes in the early mornings, it was a pleasure to be able to share the beauty of the new day being born.
I began my hike at 6:15am and my body felt thoroughly tested. I had caught my first glimpse of all three sisters at once as we drove on Hway 20 from Santiam Pass through Sisters to Bend on our way to take the hiker Lucky, whose health we were very concerned about, to the hospital. I couldn't exactly ask Pam to pull over so I could take a picture (and I had been assured by some people I spoke with at Santiam Pass that I would see all three from the next part of the trail), so it wasn't until today that I got to really take in the view of all three, finally present together, and take a picture to share with you.
The day's hike took me away from the Sisters, and away from Mt Washington, toward (and then past) Three-Fingered Jack, and toward Mt Jefferson. I did not get a glimpse of Mt Hood today, but I will enter the Mt Hood Wilderness Area tomorrow and suspect I will see it again sometime tomorrow. I hope so. Very fun to hike toward the mountain knowing Chrissy will be there when I reach it.
I thoroughly enjoyed the first 10 miles, felt deeply refreshed, hiked slowly, really took on the sense of place. A lot of the hike was through a burn area, but I was aware that the silver trees looked beautiful to me and did not fill me with dread about death and destruction, but rather gave me a sense that I could accept death and destruction as just a part of the larger beauty.
At one point I was at a viewpoint looking down at a lake and at the large burn area (one of many photos I deleted to get down to a reasonable number to post) and two men on horseback also paused to take in the view. I asked if they knew how long ago the fire had been and they replied that it was a very large, very hot fire that took place in 2003.
I thought about that as I hiked. I wondered if the silver is a later stage in the development of a burn area. First it is black, then gradually the charred bark falls away and exposes the gold tree-flesh below, which in turn bleaches to silver with time. I wondered if trees have spirits or souls and if they are agitated and confused and restless when they first die, and then with time if they begin to understand what has happened to them and be at peace. I know the silver woods feel tranquil and at ease to me, and the blackened ones do not.
Photo 1. Early morning light giving that reddish glow I love. I think that's the Sisters and Mt Washington.
Photo 2. All three sisters all visible at the same time. South Sister the most distant, so looking small, on the left. Middle and North Sister side by side.
Photo 3. Looking back at three-fingered Jack ( I wonder how he got his name) right after crossing the pass and starting down yet again.
Photo 4. The beauty of the burnt tree forms.
Photo 5. Riv's feet in inverted pose resting against the trunk of a living tree. There was wind and dramatic swift movement of clouds and I could feel the trunk of the tree sway under my feet. Notice silver trees in the background. This was my first rest stop -- actually the place with the viewpoint where the men on horses stopped who told me the fire was in 2003. Imagine knowing that.
Photo 6. Oh good! I didn't delete it after all. This is the view from the rest stop where I visited with the two men on horseback.
To be continued in Day 44, Part 2
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