Dear Trail-mates,
Wow. Mile 1715 marks the 300 mile mark in what I hope will be a pilgrimage of 1000 miles. I woke this morning early, had a leisurely "first breakfast" of cheese, homemade beef jerky, homemade breakfast bar (oats, almonds, flax, protein powder, instant coffee, cocoa powder, honey) and my beloved Starbucks Italian Roast Via. I gradually packed up, took down my tent, and as far as I know, did not lose anything.
Photo 1. There she is again. Mt Shasta in dawn light -- Bonnie's Wave.
Photo 2. Mt Shasta and ??? I forget the name of this odd little peak that for a couple of days seemed associated with cell coverage-- when I could see it, I had coverage.
I stopped for "second breakfast" at a picnic table and faucet where I refilled my water bottles.
Photo 3. "Trail Magic." The term usually refers to the generous surprises created by trail Angels. I came across some of that yesterday just as I reached the high point (almost 7000 ft I think) there were two ice chests (labeled "for long distance PCT hikers" packed with fresh fruit, soft drinks, and granola bars. I took an orange (leaving the peel in a big garbage bag weighted down and clamped shut with two heavy rocks). I enjoyed the surprise gift and thoughtfulness and thought about how the PCTA (PCT Association) has formally opposed water caches and caches of food/trail magic both because of their concern inexperienced hikers may rely on them (and with increasing hiker traffic it will not be possible to keep them consistently supplied) and because they may not be compatible with "leave no trace" ethics, particularly by attracting wildlife and endangering animals that get habituated to human food and become nuisances that need to be killed. All interesting to think about -- as usual truth on both sides.
This morning though noticing how that slant morning sun I love was touching everything with silver, I thought "THIS is the real trail magic." hence this photo.
I arrived at Callahan's and was immediately taken with the beautiful and meticulously maintained wooden building, the flower beds, the decks. I arrived about 8:30, had breakfast )a delicious smoked salmon scramble on grilled tomatoes), and sorted my resupply boxes-- which took forever. They allow PCT hikers to hang out in a conference room which gave me plenty of space to sort. (Though it doubles as an office space and when they had a meeting about bookkeeping tangles I had to put in earplugs or I couldn't track my sorting. (Something I'm not that great at in the best of circumstances.)
At 2 pm my room was available.
Photo 4: my deck
Photo 5: my bathtub and fireplace
I had a wonderful shower -- how marvelous it feels to get clean again -- started my laundry, then came to have lunch, a strawberry milkshake with s Mediterranean salad for dessert.
Photo 6. Strawberry milkshake with flower box. The waiter recommended it saying it was made with purée of fresh strawberries. It was a wonderful choice. Maybe Bonnie's Wave of the day could be that swell of whipped cream? Move aside, maraschino cherry.
Photo 7. My friend Judith Cope and I. Judith and I met when we both lived in San Diego and both worked as tech writers. We kept in touch after Chris and I moved to Orcas (and Judith to Ashland and for awhile Mt Shasta). But it has been about 15 years since we've seen each other. We had dinner together - shared a whole bottle of wine - rich and deep conversation. Judith's passion these last 15 years has been rowing (as part of an adult women's crew teams that have competed, and won a lot, all over the country. When Judith and I were growing up there was no way for athletically gifted and passionate girls to express their passion and connect with others around it; this adult rowing has allowed her to live out this essential missing piece. I didn't even know if we would recognize each other. We were both surprised by how much the same we both looked but we are also aware of growing older and it was good to talk about that -- our hopes and concerns about it. Judith not only treated me to a wonderful dinner; she also picked up a bunch of things I need for he trail and brought them to me.
Tomorrows a zero day. Stay tuned.
Riv
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